- Global Exporters of Fine Silk & Textiles
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Buyer's Fabric Guide
Momme, GSM and weave structure explained — so your specification says exactly what you mean.
Three Numbers Decide How a Silk Behaves
Most sampling problems come from an ambiguous brief. A buyer asks for “medium-weight Mulberry” and receives something technically correct but completely wrong for the garment.
Weight, density and weave structure are the three variables that actually determine drape, opacity and durability. Get those right in the specification and the rest of the process becomes straightforward.
What the Terms Actually Mean
Momme
The traditional silk weight unit: the weight in pounds of a piece 45 inches by 100 yards. Higher momme means a denser, heavier, more opaque cloth. Scarves sit around 8–12 mm, blouses and dresses 12–19 mm, and upholstery or heavy drapes 20 mm and above.
GSM
The metric equivalent used across the wider textile trade. It measures weight per area regardless of fibre, which makes it easier to compare silk against cotton or linen. If your tech pack already speaks in GSM, quote GSM — we will convert.
Weave
Plain weave is crisp and matte; satin and charmeuse float threads on the surface for sheen and fluid drape; twill adds diagonal body; organza is sheer and wiry. The same yarn in two weaves produces two completely different fabrics.
Matching the Silk to the Job
- Fluid drape, high sheen — Mulberry charmeuse, 16–19 mm
- Structure and body — Tussar or dupion, 18–22 mm
- Warmth with matte finish — Eri, 16–24 mm
- Sheer overlays — Mulberry organza, 6–10 mm
- Visible handloom character — Desi or matka silk
- Upholstery and drapery — 20 mm and above, tight weave
Unsure which applies? Send us the garment or product you are making and we will recommend the weight and weave, then send swatches so you can confirm the choice in your own hands.
Want a recommendation for your product?
Describe what you’re making and we’ll suggest the silk, weight and weave — then send swatches to confirm it.